Finland for foodies: Vår, Porvoo

Have you ever enjoyed a long tasting menu while listening to Finnish rap? The Porvoo-based restaurant Vår draws inspiration from the roots of its restaurateurs, and thus, the soundtrack is rap. They thrive in that soundscape, and when the staff is well, the service runs smoothly. Vår and Finnish rap also share something in common; both draw from the foundation of the traditional Finnish culture and create something distinctive that reflects the spirit of the times.

Vår serves contrasts: if the sound-track may be a bit restless, the environment is otherwise harmonious, showcasing Scandinavian design at its best. According to restaurateur Niko Lehto, it would be too clinical without the rough edges brought by the music.

Niko Lehto, along with Marjo Lindberg, opened Vår in August 2021. The immediate goal was to achieve a Michelin star. The goal proved realistic, and since June 2023, Vår has shone as a guiding star in Porvoo restaurant scene with a red Michelin star and a Green Star.

The entire concept of Vår is based on sustainability and community. The restaurant’s name is a play on words. Many think that the Swedish word means spring. However, for Vår owners, it primarily means us: through Vår, they tell a story about who they are and where they come from. Everything is done according to their values without compromise.

Lehto, who has experienced burnout in his career, emphasizes that being a good employer is part of his values, ensuring that both oneself and others enjoy working there. The guiding principle for food is locality and, consequently, responsibility.

In addition to Lehto’s youth music, Vår also indulges in flavor memories that take him back to his childhood in Korso, Vantaa. The amuse-bouche is a well-established jewelry-like version of a sandwich cake that was always served at family celebrations. It is Lehto’s comfort food. Another amuse is “Skagen,” reminiscent of the menus of summer restaurants in Porvoo.

References to the still-operating Brunberg sweet factory in Porvoo naturally conclude the menu. Brunberg´s marmalade, rice chocolate, and nougat are served as one-star versions, providing the final touch to the dinner.

“The petite fours have a link to my own flavor memories and the history of the house. I’ve always liked sweets. The history of the house led us precisely to these flavors Flavor memories are essential; they tie the menu together,” says Lehto.

Meet the chef Niko Lehto

The Finnish ingredient which gets your creativity flowing?

Finnish wild fish, especially perch and vendace. Finnish berries are also close to my heart; you can use them in almost any dish, and preserving them yields many new flavors.

The wildest flavor combo you’ve created?

Caramelized whey and celeriac are probably on the wilder side.

A song which sets your kitchen on fire

Lähiörotat skujaa by Lähiörotat.

When @VÅR, taste...

The spring season menu is definitely my favorite. Coldwater wild fish, the season’s first fresh vegetables, and, of course, local wild herbs give the starting shot for the new growing season.

When @PORVOO, do...

Porvoo is full of good restaurants and cafes. The best places for those hungry for culture are Aatos Cafe and Vanha 123, located in an old movie theater next to Vår. Porvoo also has beautiful natural sites, and one of my favorite excursion destinations is Varlaxudden recreational area, which not only offers great views but also excellent barbecue spots.

Go visit Vår

• restaurantvar.fi
• Papinkatu 17, Porvoo, Finland